Thursday, November 28, 2013

Berlin and Rennes


Berlin
I arrived in Berlin first thing on Friday and checked into my flat in The Adina - a very centrally located apartment hotel not far from Check Point Charlie. It is part of the Australian hotel/apartment chain Toga P/L which operates Medina serviced apartments. For anyone visiting Berlin it is difficult to imagine better located accommodation at a very reasonable price.
Berlin is close to the eastern border of Germany and after WWII was divided up between the allies: -France, USA, England and Russia. Relations with Russia soured as the cold war took effect in the late 1940’s and, like Berlin, Germany itself had also been split between the Russian controlled east and the UK/USA/France controlled west. Over the initial fifteen post war years nearly 2 million East Germans relocated to the West Germany (usually via Berlin) and the Russians found the presence of Berlin so deep in East Germany territory a major irritant. But the allies were determined to maintain hold of West Berlin.
 
In 1961 Russia erected a wall along its border with West Germany (and in Berlin) and then denied the allies from access to Berlin via road/rail across its territory. The allies consequently operated an airlift for 14 months to supply West Berlin and to keep it independent. In the end the rail/road access was again permitted but the wall remained.

East Germany was a puppet of the soviet bloc and was known as the GDR (German Democratic Republic) and West Germany was known as the Federal Republic of Germany (FRG). In the 1970s they both gained a separate seat at the UN and after the soviet bloc disintegrated in 1989 reunification occurred during the early 1990s.
 
This rather tortuous history is symptomatic of Germany’s history over the centuries. There were Germanic tribes in Roman times and various alliances, wars and treaties between sectors of what is now mainland Europe. Its industrial revolution and growth of cities occurred later than in Britain. Issues of nationalism and rights of the workers/masses figured starkly in the last century as borders shifted and power bases changed and the loss of two catastrophic wars played out.

The City
Berlin has elegant boulevards and tree lined streets and there is no obvious evidence of the incredible effects from the allied bombing in WWII which devastated the city. The layout is orderly and is dominated by beautiful parkland, the Tiergarten, and the Spree River and its tributary the Spandau.
Checkpoint Charlie
This was a famous landmark during the time of the Berlin Wall. It was the gate between East Berlin and the US sector of West Berlin. It was the scene of various escapes by vehicle from East Berlin and a symbol of the tension that continued during the cold war period.
                                                                                Checkpoint Charlie
I took a tourist Berlin Bus Tour from here which gave an excellent orientation to the city which is very easy to navigate and museums and galleries of various purpose and history abound. There is a public, eclectic modern art scene in Berlin. The city is a very cosmopolitan destination for people from all parts of Europe and beyond.

The bus tour included well known landmarks such as the Reichstag, the Brandenburg Gate, the Humboldt University, the shopping precinct of Potsdam Place and the busy hub of Alexanderstrasse.

                                                                               Brandenberg Gate
 
Eich bein en Berliner
In a speech to the people of West Berlin in 1962 US President Kennedy famously uttered these words (or something like them) meaning “I am a Berliner!” This was very well received at the time and I thought of this proclamation on my first day in Berlin when in the space of two hours three separate strangers approached me to ask for directions! Two were Germans from out of town. This happens a lot to me no matter what city I visit and I have no idea why. It was not as if I was wearing a Tyrolean hat or lederhosen! As it happened, I did know the answer for two of my questioners and I gave a very confident answer to the third!
Berlin Subway

The subway was very clean and efficient and appeared new (perhaps it was a new line as the original lines date back to the 1920’s). On a visit to Munich some years ago Sharon and I had noticed that there were no ticket barriers on entrance or exit from the subway station and the same applies in Berlin. In almost every other major city I can think of you have to use a ticket or card to activate an entrance or exit gate in the subway.
This must reflect something about the German character or willingness to conform-or perhaps there are dire fines for fare evasion!
I took a trip out to the eastern suburbs and alighted at various suburbs for a look around. Some were dormitory suburbs with tall residential blocks; others were commercial hubs or villages.
Museum of German History
I came upon the entrance to this museum by chance on a main thoroughfare. I left nearly four hours later – and was thoroughly impressed with how the museum presented its story. Basically it traced German history from Roman times. For each century there were easy to comprehend narratives explaining what happened along with the implications. With this there were artefacts, household furnishings, clothing, medallions, artworks or other items representative of that period.
 
In the last few centuries there were obviously more items to exhibit – but the curators did a wonderful job keeping the displays relevant and interesting. I had not formally studied modern history but with the ravages of WWI, and the clash of nationalism and socialism in Germany in the subsequent decade, the rise of Hitler and his party appears to be understandable. However, it would have been difficult for the average voter to have anticipated the extremities and depravities his ultimate behaviour and policies as leader-even though there was little to misinterpret about the direction he would probably take.
Christmas Markets
Christmas markets are a European tradition which Sharon and I have enjoyed previously. In Berlin there were several elaborate markets either operating or being set up. They are clusters of beautifully lit solid wooden stalls selling food, mulled wine, craft products, Christmas decorations and souvenirs. They usually operate in the evening and are popular places to congregate.
                                                                         Christmas Decorations
Other Museums

There is an island which is home to several museums but as this trip was more of a reconnaissance mission I will visit that next time. But I did also visit other museums including one focusing on the German/European statesman Willy Brandt who had been a mayor of Berlin in the early 1960s; and an interesting museum focusing on communication – commencing with how we communicate as humans through to all the technologies we have adopted to assist from - steam engines to mail, phones, TV, the Internet etc. It was a very interactive venue and utterly absorbing.
                                                                      Abandoned Building
Overnight Train

I left Berlin on Sunday evening en route for my brother’s house near Rennes in Brittany. After weighing up various transport options, I elected to take an overnight sleeper train from Berlin to Paris and then to change to Montparnasse station for the TGV to Rennes. My companion for the night in the sleeper compartment was a young German executive who works for Wikipedia and he takes this travel option pretty frequently.
Although it was a 13 hour journey the rattle of the train and the sound of the wheels clacking over the tracks is somehow soothing and I had an excellent night’s sleep.
Berlin rail station has been rebuilt and is an engineering marvel. Many other cities have several stations on the perimeter of the city with tracks heading off in various directions. Berlin was reopened in 2007 and has a set of east west lines and two storeys below a set of north south tracks and can therefore service travel in any direction from the city. It is close to the city centre and connected to the subway system.
Rennes
I arrived in Rennes mid afternoon on Monday and enjoyed meeting up with my brother, Gar, and his two sons, Paul and Gregoire. The boys are doing well at school and next year Paul will be going to the senior high school. I had previously visited in March this year and am increasingly familiar with Rennes which is the capital of the province of Brittany. This area has an interesting history and was settled by Celtic tribes originating from Wales and Ireland centuries ago. There is a current emphasis on the special history of the region and many signs are presented in French and Breton and the Breton language is being taught in many schools. It was amusing to learn that the song for the Rennes FC is sung to the tune of the famous Welsh anthem, Land of Our Fathers!
                                                              Gregoire, Paul & Gar
Over the years it has not been a strong region economically and in the 1950’s de Gaulle made an edict that there would never be any tolls on highways in the region as a means of making the area more economically attractive. There was nevertheless a recent attempt to introduce limited tolling for large lorries in Brittany which stoked outrage including burning down the newly built sensor structures and other related disturbances and demonstrations! The government has decided to defer the plan until a date to be determined. This is code for backing down altogether! The French have always been disposed to direct action on matters that concern or upset them and this was a very stark reminder to the lawmakers as to what will and will not be tolerated.

On the following day Gar and I drove around the area and did some short trail walks within an hour of his home. There are so many small villages or communes in the area and the highly regulated building codes ensure that the villages are restored very attractively and have excellent services.

Discount flights out of the nearby airport at Dinard are infrequent at this time of year and I left this afternoon and arrived in London ahead of my flight to Dubai on Friday evening.

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