London
By now the spring weather in London was bringing out the
striped rental deck chairs in the parks and beautiful tulips and daffodils in
the gardens. My direct flight from Rennes arrived at Southend, one of the
several airports around London which are accessible by train.
Buckingham Palace
I only had a few
days in London but managed to see three shows: The Bank Robbery (comedy play
full of malapropisms and double entendres); a new production of Mamma Mia; and
Beautiful – the story of Carole King. I had not realised how prolific her
composing had been nor that she commenced her career as a composer at such a
young age. She became pregnant at 16, married the father who was her lyricist
and they became a formidable song writing team until the marriage dissolved. She
then pursued a successful solo career singing her compositions.
Birthday Cakes for Queen's 90th on sale in Waitrose
London had more decoration than usual with the impending 90th
Birthday of the Queen. Waitrose is even selling iced fruit birthday cakes in
honour of her majesty!
St Paul's Cathedral
I watched a changing of the Guard and did a few other
touristy things including a visit to the Sherlock Holmes museum in Baker
Street.
Household Cavalry
I had never really properly explored the National Gallery at
Trafalgar Square and on this trip I spent nearly a whole day there. The current
exhibition was of Dutch flower artists and the artworks ranged over about 200
years and each painting was masterful in the detail, colour and presentation of
various arrangements of flowers.
Expensive cars in Mayfair streets - each worth >$A1.3Mill
Speakers Corner in Hyde Park on Sundays can be interesting
but over recent years is populated by religious zealots and has generally lost
its appeal. But on this occasion there was a speaker who was eloquent and a
good debater who was discussing his belief that women had not assumed the
responsibilities that go with new rights won under the guise of feminism. He
went on to explain the implications of this in society if the issue was not
addressed!
In the National Gallery I discovered originals of prints that used hang in Price Street
Battersea Park London
I stayed in a serviced flat in Mayfair and again was struck
by the opulence of visitors from the middle east who have outrageously
expensive cars (+$A1.5 million) – usually with Saudi Arabian licence plates. I
understand that they fly these cars in when they visit the neighbourhood!
Mayfair London
Cotswolds and Bath
The Cotswolds is an elevated area due west of London and
north of Bath. It is known for its rolling countryside with hilly outcrops and
innumerable pretty villages dotted around the landscape. My rental car this
time was a red Volvo hatch back which was ideal for the hedged single lane
roads that traverse this farming country.
Walking Track Cotswolds
Did several walks – some along well-worn paths and a few
using right of way across farmlands. Very lush and green foliage and sunny days
made for a pleasant experience with the knowledge that the walk would finish at
or near a pub!
19th century manor house - incomplete as the owner became bankrupt
My accommodation for Bath had been booked online and was a
flat that was below street level! But it was comfortable and I don’t know how
they prevent rising damp as it must have been below the water line of the
nearby Avon River.
Avon River flows through Bath
Bath comprises Georgian buildings and terraces in the main
which appear to be made from a warm coloured sandstone - so different to the
white limestone seen elsewhere in Britain. It has a university and hospitals
and of course had been home to Jane Austen in whose honour there is a small
museum.
Bath Cathedral - site of crowning of England's first king in 978
The Romans had a significant settlement here and the Roman
Baths they built over a thermal spring about 100AD still operates.
Royal Crescent - Bath 1754
I also travelled to the university town of Oxford and was
surprised to come across a graduation ceremony. The graduands were being led
along the street by an elderly academic – all in academic robes with proud
parents and family onlookers awaiting entrance to the hall. This scene has
probably been played out regularly for 400+ years and it reminded me of the
many prominent people who undertook their studies there.
Oxford Graduates
The Isis River (part of the Thames) flows through Oxford
On the way in for conferring of degrees at Oxford
China
On 17 May I flew from London to Hong Kong and then on to
Xi’an in the central /western region of China in the Shaanxi province. Xi’an
(pron shee-unn) was the original capital of China. In about 200BC Qin fought
and defeated the other six kingdoms on the Chinese mainland and brought the
territories together as China for the first time. This was the beginning of the
Qin dynasty – and of what we now know as China.
Atop the inner wall of Xi'an
Emperor Qin was apparently a pretty vicious character who
was not popular and early in his reign he set about building his mausoleum
which would allow him to have as much control in the after-life as he did
during his life. His mausoleum has been discovered but not yet excavated.
Pit number 1 with hangar roof
About
1.5km in one direction an army of terra cotta warriors has been discovered (by
chance in 1974 by a farmer digging a well) and there is every likelihood
similar armies will be discovered in other directions. The terra cotta warriors
were made individually and have incredibly fine characteristics.
Wooden beams rested above the soldiers on the rock ledges forming a roof
A large pit or trough was carved from rock in which the
various legions of warriors were placed in rows. Then wooden beams and mats
were placed across the trough as a roof and earth was then laid on top. Over
the centuries the wooden beams have rotted and the roof collapsed smashing the
warriors below.
View of Pit 1 - see troughs where soldiers were arranged - the leading soldiers were spread laterally
After the 1974 discovery, teams of archaeologists have
painstakingly restored the warriors from the rubble – 8000 soldiers, archers,
horses and infantrymen. The work continues today and two new pits are now under
reconstruction. The original site is covered by a huge hangar like roof and
while the creation of these warriors for over 30+ years by 700,000 slaves and
artisans over 2000 years ago really is a wonder of the world-the restoration
itself is also pretty remarkable.
These findings also demonstrate a high level of
sophistication particularly in metallurgy. Swords with a chrome like finish
have been discovered yet chrome was a major advance in the west only last
century.
Xi’an remained the capital of China up until the Ming
dynasty which was around 1500. The streets were well laid out with a chess
board plan of precincts. The city was walled in those days and had a population
of approximately a million. An inner city wall still remains and is a rectangle
with a 14 km perimeter. Various dynasties followed Qin and there were several
prosperous decades over the centuries. The silk road trade route commenced in
Xi’an and wound its way through the middle east to eastern Europe. Its origins
were primarily in the desire of the emperor to have access to better bred
horses and the ensuing general trade was incidental to this purpose.
Family travel - Xi'an
On the site of the former emperors’ palace – of which only
the perimeter remains - there is a large
park which I visited. On the day of my visit it was well used primarily by
retirees. There was a cacophony of noise from multiple sources of music all
overlapping with each other.
Synchronised exercise
There were teams doing synchronised exercises, at
least five choirs and associated ‘orchestras’ (usually saxophones, trumpets,
drums and zithers), playing energetic songs (always within hearing range of other
choirs), individual musicians practising their instruments, people performing
tai chi and groups playing a form of feet shuttle cock which was very athletic
and played by all ages.
Community Choir and orchestra
One chap had a heavy looking spinning top which he
controlled by a string with two handles. It got up to a very high speed and
also made lots of noise! He insisted that I had a go and I was able to get it
operational – but that is all!
Spinning Top - Xi'an
Being towards the west of China it was not surprising to see
Muslim people also congregating in the park. Their music was distinctively
Arabic and their dancers didn’t touch each other – whereas the ballroom dancing
Chinese were fox trotting and waltzing with their partners.
Western style dancing in the park
I was invited to join in with the Arabic dances and, as they
say, you can take the boy out of Merrylands
. . . . and I was able to introduce a few new steps that seemed to amuse
the locals.
Another ensemble
Food
Food was plentiful – I could have as many toads, crustaceans
and fish heads as I could possibly want from the street side stalls. In the
north of China wheat is the predominant crop so noodles (usually flat) are the
preferred staple whereas rice is the staple food in the south.
City Avenue - Xi'an
Today tourism is
a major new industry and this has happened quite rapidly in Xi’an. New highways
and hotels are catering for both domestic and international travellers. The
migration from rural areas to the city is happening in Xi’an and some very
impoverished housing was adjacent to some of these new hotels. About 8 million
people live in Xi’an but it is growing quickly.
City Park Xi'an
There is a Muslim Street which comprises street stalls
selling Arabic foods and goods. Very colourful and again lots of noise and
mayhem – much like any other bazaar I suppose. For one sweet food they need to
stretch out a viscous toffee like substance to aerate it. This is done in front
of the shop by strong young men – some of whom wear plastic gloves. In the
background spices are being ground down with milling stones while pretty young
Chinese women are wearing the hijab.
Muslim stall - note spices being ground in the background
Signage
Everywhere I go in China I see potential for assistance with
fine tuning signage in English. At least most signs in Chinese cities are bi
lingual – which is not the case in Australian cities. Dual signage makes a huge
difference for visitors enabling them to navigate and use subways and it would
be impossible otherwise.
But there are some amusing clangers everywhere you turn –
even on major highway signs where often it is juxtaposition of letters. I saw a
large sign headed up in English: Kindly Note: (it then went on in some detail
in Chinese characters)! It reminded me of signs in London headed up: Polite
Notice. Presumably some other notices must be impolite!
Buddhism
There are endless historical events that occurred in Xi’an
during the time it was the imperial capital. One significant event was that a
chap walked to India to investigate Buddhism. He returned with copious Sanskrit
texts which he duly translated into Chinese. He was able to persuade an
emperor to adopt Buddhism and this led to its spread throughout China. I was
told that today probably less than 5% of Chinese would adhere to any formal
religion or believe in any form of after-life.
Qingdao
In 1885 the Germans occupied this northern town on the coast
of China – it is directly opposite Korea and many Chinese coastal towns were
invaded in this way during the 1800’s including Hong Kong. The locals would
have been terrified by these events but were really in no position to defend
themselves. The occupying power would ‘negotiate’ a lease of the land for 99 years
and then set up their colony.
In the grounds of the Tsingdao Brewery Qingdao
In the old centre of Qingdao there is a catholic church built by the Germans and they built a town very much on European lines. More recently it became the Olympic venue for the sailing events at the Beijing Olympics in 2008.
Being German, one of the first priorities of the
colonialists was to build a brewery and I was able to visit the Tsingtao
brewery which has a terrific museum tracing its history since 1903.
Tsingdao Brewery
The Japanese invaded in 1914 and commenced production of Kirrin
and Asahai beer at the brewery – the occupation was very tough on the locals
and the Japanese were finally removed in WWII. Subsequently, Chinese brewers
assumed control and the success of the brand broadly followed the expansion of
the Chinese economy in the post war years. Tsingtao is actually a very good
beer and is readily available in Sydney.
Quality Improvement
There was a famous incident in the 1970’s when a customer
discovered a bottle brush in a bottle of Tsingtao purchased in Hong Kong. This
was a very embarrassing incident which led to vastly improved quality control
procedures! To keep management focused on product quality the CEO was made
personally liable by the Board.
The Chinese are a resourceful people who are not prone to
wasting money. In the matter of beer consumption, they are probably the only
people in the world to turn up at a bar and have a plastic bag filled from the
draught tap rather than pay for bottled beer!
Being a coastal town there are three beaches appositely
named Beach Number 1, Beach Number 2 and Beach Number 3! I walked for about 8km
along the coast line and while it was a warm afternoon no one was in the water.
But I saw literally dozens of wedding couples being photographed against the
coastal scenery. Interesting props were used and Chinese couples usually have
the photo session either before or after the actual wedding day. This actually
makes sense as they can choose optimal conditions and timing.
Last minute makeup for wedding shoot
Along the coast I saw various celebrations being held in
taverns and halls overlooking the sea. Often I could see helium balloons and
the celebration of 100. I initially thought that an amazing number of people
were celebrating 100 year birthdays – but, upon inquiry, I discovered these
were actually celebrations of 100 days since birth! I guess it is like what we
would have by way of a christening party.
An international brand!
Qingdao is a slower paced city than the big cities of China.
The new rail subway is under construction and there is a pleasant ambience that
should make the city attractive to visitors well into the future.
On Sunday I met a chap in the lift who was well dressed and
he was going to open a zoo! He was the Chairman of the Tourism Authority of
Mauritius and apparently Mauritius was one of the first countries to recognise
the PRC in 1949. He said that Mauritius had donated some tortoises to the zoo
and when we reached the lobby, government officials were waiting for their
visiting dignitary.
Shanghai
Blue skies in Shanghai on arrival which is not always the
case. First errand was the tailors market as I had some orders to place – more
of the metallic coloured jackets. Given my planned brief stay I had expected to
need to make arrangements with friends to collect the finished goods and
despatch for me after I left. But I had not allowed for Chinese urgency when
money is involved and my various orders were ready in less than 24 hours.
Tailors' market Shanghai
On the following day went to a wonderful retrospective
photographic exhibition about the Soong sisters. Their father was converted to
Christianity by missionaries in the 1800’s and his education in America was
facilitated by the church and he returned to China as a missionary. He arranged
for the three sisters to also receive their high school and college education
in southern USA in the early 1900’s and the daughters became fluent in English
(albeit with a southern accent).
East Nanjing Road - pedestrian street Shanghai
The family was not well connected politically or socially yet the daughters married individuals who would do much to alter the history of China. One married Sun Yat Sen who is generally regarded as the leader of the movement to bring down the monarchy in China (the last emperor abdicated around 1912). Sun Yat Sen was a towering figure in Chinese modern history and I have visited his tomb in Nanjing on previous travels.
Another daughter married Chiang Kai Chek who, as a gifted
military figure, defeated various warlords who had stepped into the vacuum of
the departing emperor. He had unified the country by the late 1920’s but the
communist forces were fermenting revolution with the support of Russia and a
civil war broke out. However, the Japanese who had occupied parts of China
during WWI in 1937 became aggressors and the communists and nationalists put
aside their differences to try to defeat the Japanese.
Art Museum Shanghai - Soong Sisters exhibition
It was difficult as they had no support from any allies. Chiang Kai Chek’s wife went to the USA in 1941 and addressed both houses of congress imploring support from the US which had not entered the War at that stage. Madame Chiang was very well received but the Japanese did the job for her by bombing Pearl Harbour later that year.
Chiang Kai Chek became supreme allied commander in south
Asia based at headquarters in Chongqing. His wife was actively involved in
everything as his personal assistant and interpreter. One of the US generals was
Stillwell who, as a son of missionaries, had lived much of his boyhood also in
China and his statue still stands in Chongqing.
Once the civil war resumed following the defeat of the
Japanese in WWII, Chiang and his nationalist forces were defeated and fled to
Formosa and established Taiwan.
The three women lived very long lives – into their 90’s and
part of the exhibition was a video of Madame Chiang making a brief speech in
2003 in the USA where she had moved following her husband’s demise.
Fans over the Lane - Shanghai
Shanghai has a highly developed cultural scene and there are always any number of fascinating exhibitions, shows, or events. I walked past a stadium to see that an Asian Cup match was on that night – Tokyo vs Shanghai. I also saw that a new exhibition was on at a private gallery on the outskirts of town. I took the subway to the end of the line and found myself in an expat enclave with excellent housing and facilities.
Pearl Tower - The Bund Shanghai
The Long Gallery and is itself a magnificent museum space. It had three significant displays including one on revolutionary art (read: political propaganda) which was used to prop up Mao’s messages and his many ill-fated initiatives. Artists tend to observe society and comment through their work – although in those times they saw advantage giving some legitimacy to positive myths about Mao.
Hong Kong
View of Hong Kong Island and Victoria Harbour from my hotel
Hong Kong remains a vibrant city and revels in its ‘special
administrative’ status. The newspapers seem a little hostile to Beijing – I
guess in the way smaller cities are often hostile to bigger cities. There is an
undercurrent of concern that Hong Kong’s current independence is slowly being
eroded. But life goes on much as before the handover by the British which is
nearly 20 years ago. It is always fun to walk around the streets and back lanes
named after British note worthies of the 19th century. I was
surprised to see some Falun Gong demonstrators handing out their material
unhindered. I doubt that would be permitted on the mainland – and if the authorities
acted on this in HKG there would be an uproar irrespective of the population’s
view about the merits of the Falun Gong cause!
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