Tallinn
Tallinn is the capital of Estonia which is a small country
of 1.5 million people. It is adjacent to Russia and two other small nations Lithuania and
Latvia but has the advantage of a seaport on the Baltic.
Old City wall Tallinn
It is remarkable that these three little nations have
remained independent – they were part of the USSR until its demise in the early
1990’s.
We were in port for a day and had a chance to visit the old
town centre. Elegant handicrafts which had been made locally were for sale.
Flower Market Tallinn
We
have a connection with Estonia in that our nephew Daniel McCarthy's partner is Ringa who comes from Tallinn.
Stockholm
Harbour Front - Stockholm
Stockholm, the capital of Sweden, is a clean port city and
we were struck by its harbour setting and advanced infrastructure. We were only
there for a few hours in transit to Paris and on to Shanghai.
Shanghai
View of Ring Road from my 50th floor hotel room
The first thing I noticed as compared to my many previous
visits to this bustling city was blue sky. Usually it is overcast and a haze of
pollution is around. Perhaps it was the season but for the duration of my stay
there were blue skies and probably the pollution was there but not so apparent.
Night view of Shanghai
Construction continues apace. Older rundown areas are being
redeveloped and there appears to be further expansion of the perimeter.
Tree lined residential street near centre of Shanghai
Shanghai spreads out evenly and each local precinct appears to
have everything in the way of services, commerce and retail. The ring road
system and subway takes you to your preferred destination and you feel as
though you have a cocoon of local community despite being in a major
metropolis. Tree lined streets where the canopy overlaps the street are common
and evidence of former European settlements remains in various precincts.
But life is
hard for many including those many thousands who migrate here from the
countryside every month. They arrive without work permits and not much money
and need to be proactive and flexible to find employment and accommodation. Meanwhile sales of luxury cars boom and consumption is
conspicuous.
Along with a more apparent focus upon the environment is a focus upon alternative energy. Some cities around the world have trolley buses attached to overhead wires. In Shanghai on some routes when a bus pulls up at a stop it raises a retractable gantry from the roof and briefly attaches to some overhead rails and recharges batteries.
Electric bus reaching up for a 'charge' from overhead rails
The Museum of Modern Art is established in what was an old factory complex which produced carpet. Lots of separate and disjointed double story buildings are now home to artisans, displays, and galleries using all forms of media. As with all art there is a subtext or commentary on the political circumstances and life of the times.
Museum of Modern Art - Shanghai
The works were engaging, eclectic, incredibly artistic and
in some cases confronting.
There was a continuous stream of visitors who were engrossed
and engaged by what they were inspecting – I think some were art students who
perhaps study in one of the many fine art faculties that thrive in Shanghai’s
many universities.
Museum of Modern Art in premises of former carpet factory
Harbin
In the late 1800’s Harbin did not really exist as a city -
it was a cluster of rural villages. But all that changed as the Russians
undertook the construction of the Trans-Siberian railway. Located north of the
Korean peninsular, it was an ideal base to undertake the final stage of this
huge rail project. The area became part of the Imperial Russian Empire and
Russians became a prominent component of the community.
Central Street Harbin - Pedestrian Only
The evidence of their presence is obvious today not only in
Orthodox churches built at the time but in their descendants – many of whom
appear Chinese but speak Russian and vice versa. Much of the signage is in
Mandarin and Russian – and very little English.
St Sophia's Church 1902 - now used as a historical photograph museum
The area was also at one stage last century part of Japanese Manchuria. The Japanese are not fondly remembered. But apparently there is
recognition of the significant amount of infrastructure through ports and roads
for which they were responsible – albeit with the help of slave labour from the
occupied territories.
Street decoration Harbin - these were everywhere
While we typically regard Shanghai and Hong Kong as the
cities through which most western influence arrived in China, the Chinese also
credit the Russians in Harbin as a major source western culture and influence.
Rhythmic dance competition Harbin
A very interesting photographic display in the Church of St Sophia traces the
development of the city in the 1900’s and it is fascinating to see the
fashions, transport and lifestyle – which could just as easily been
photographed in a major US or UK city at the time. Approaching the city by air the terrain is remarkably flat
and rural settlements can be seen clustered every 15 km or so.
Harbin - after the dancing the square becomes a water world accompanied by music
The city is clean with open boulevards and occasionally
cobble stoned streets. The main street is a pedestrian thoroughfare and the side
streets are also mainly pedestrian. There
are flower settings everywhere and the locals understandably make the most of
summer because the five months of winter are bitterly cold with average
temperatures of minus 20-30 C.
Violinist on first floor balcony above pedestrian street Harbin
It is an artistic city and particularly at night one can
hear Viennese music, swing bands and any number of young people in musical
quartets performing in public spaces. They are not busking – it appears that
the city promotes this musical culture. There is generally an overlay of piano
accordion along with the plentiful violins and guitars and even a few outdoor
beer halls serving terrific food along with the beer. They required a deposit
on the glass tankards which seemed an efficient way to keep recycling the
glasses and to avoid the need for someone to be employed collecting them! The
overall effect is European and cultured – and the locals enjoy it enormously.
Passenger Ferry Port - Song Ha River, Harbin
Perhaps consistent with this cultural emphasis there was a
precinct where portrait artists were set up in a long row and their subjects
would suit opposite for a portrait which took about 30 minutes.
Portrait Artists - Harbin portrait takes 25 mins and costs $A 12
And the results aren't bad either
On my first evening I visited an upstairs Russian restaurant
and it was redolent of St Petersburg with lots of mirrors and fake gilt swirls
everywhere.
Restaurant - Russian style Harbin
On the following day in a large open plaza near the Church of
St Sophia (1903) I came across what appeared to be a competition of teams in
rhythmic dance. Participants were all aged over 50 and were very enthusiastic.
When the competition was over the plaza became a fantastic
water space. Jets every metre or so in the flag stones sprayed water in multiple and patterns all accompanied by broadcast music. The kids loved it and on a
summer’s day it was very popular!
Park lands - Sun Island
The massive Song Ha River flows through Harbin and along the
river’s edge is Stalin Park which is narrow with a wide tree lined pedestrian
walk way through its centre. It was lovely to stroll along the park (with
thousands of others!) and on park benches I came across little clusters of
people playing music. One group of three very Chinese looking people were playing
beautiful songs on balalaikas; another bench had a violinist, piano
accordionist and guitarist. They are playing for enjoyment and appeared
oblivious to the passers-by.
Waterfall Sun Island (artificial but realistic!)
Across the River was Sun Island which is a massive park not
dissimilar to Bi Centennial Park in Sydney but probably three times as big.
Beautiful planned gardens and parkland again with recognition of Russian
heritage.
Sun Island - Russian Dolls
Wudalianchi
I travelled further north from Harbin for 6 hours by train – a similar distance from Sydney to Dubbo. It was a step
back in time – to the thirties. The carriages were big and tall as there were
no bridges crossing the railway tracks. The carriages had rotating fans along the roof but
no air conditioning and appeared to be possibly pre-war vintage.
Wudalianshi township
The boarding process was hectic and passports and ID
cards were necessary for any travellers. Passengers were corralled in fenced
areas then, once papers and tickets were inspected, had a long walk with luggage
over several sets of stairs to the train. The travel options were a choice of firm seat class or soft
seat class – but on this occasion there was only firm seat class left!
Taoist monk - apparently indulging in some fortune telling
The train was very crowded and some passengers stood for the
entire journey. My booked seat cost the equivalent of $4.70! There was a
cacophony of chatter the whole way. This was in stark contrast to the lack of
interaction on city subways where electronic devices hold sway. I had engaged
an interpreter for this and the next two days which proved very helpful. As
well as translating I could also ask questions about what I was seeing.
Buddhist Temple Wudalianchi
Every now and then a trolley would be pushed along the aisle
and food and drink could be purchased but most people had made their own
arrangements. Sunflower seeds were plentiful and the passengers opposite were
happy to share with me. My guide pointed out how the locals used their teeth to
crack the casing and then consume the seeds. I was told to look closely at the
teeth of the consumers and, sure enough, in nearly everyone I saw a v or a
notch which had been worn in to a central incisor by this chewing method.
Boardwalk across basalt country - extinct volcano on horizon
I alighted from the train at Beian and then hired a cab for
the next two days ($A 55) to travel the two hour trip to Wudalianchi and its
surrounds. It is a natural history precinct of some significance. The flat
lands are dotted with extinct volcanoes and basaltic rock formations presumably
from the most recent eruption in the 1700’s. There are records of this eruption
in the historical records from the Qing dynasty.
Rim of extinct volcano crater with more in the distance
I was able to climb up an extinct volcano and inspect the
crater. It also offered a terrific vantage point for the local scenery. Given
the harsh winter this whole region shuts down for about four months as the
tourists sensibly would not visit at that time of year.
National Park Wudalianchi
There were pristine rivers and lakes and cleverly arranged
access for visitors via golf carts or boardwalks which will protect the environment
for years to come.
Healthy streams with abundant plant life
Basalt country with origins on the horizon
